• I can not simply leave Leon as a mark on the map. I had a wonderful experience there guided by someone I will address in a later blog as she deserves much more attention. I was treated to an amazing tour of San Isidoro. An early 12th Century Romanic church of significant importance in Spanish history and the history of Christendom. The museum tour was amazing and the artifacts that tie the Christian history to the Islamic through their artifacts, architecture, and circumstances are truly what the Camino is all about. 
• I also learned that the headquarters of the Roman 6th Legion was also based in what we now know as Leon. Attached is a sidewalk guide to the Roman Legioon one can walk about following the footsteps of the Roman Legions. It is meant to show the imprint of the legeonare’s sandal.   

OK kids. For those of you who are following along on your maps, Papi missed a road sign somewhere and ended up on an alternative route thru Villadangos del Paramo (easy for you to say) I thought I was in Vilar de Mazarife BUT NO!  So at 11:00 I had to decide to stay and accept my fate or continue on. I chose the harder right as is my nature. I walked on to a town called Hospital de Orbigo a total of 34 km today in 7 1/2 hours of walking. So this sets me up for a good day tomorrow with only 16.3 to Astorga. There are the biggest climbs of the journey in the next few days so if I can break them up it is a good thing. 

There have been a few comments about the food along the way. As luck would have it, next door to the parish albergue there is an award winning restaurant of the region. Good enough to take a credit card. I had one of the best Spanish meals in years from gambas as ajillo through the entrecôte with Roquefort sauce and wine.  So far I have been surviving on the usual chicken and French fries but when I can I have been eating my way through the pig. My first codilla de cerdo ( pig elbow) was delicious as were the pig cheeks. I still have not found the elusive Cordero asado (roast lamb) but there is time. 

Your hole pilgrim. 

•   It is interesting to me how an event or phrase or experience taken out of context lacks the profundity of meaning due to the lack of connection with the emotions of the moment. I find myself visiting today the town of Leon and her many architectural treasures. I have been here before. Yes it was 35 years ago when Jean and I dragged young Amanda about the north of Spain to see what Amanda called at the time “more old churches”. ( She was only 5). But to walk nearly 300 miles on the Camino and then enter the cathedral in Leon is a whole different thing. I was blessed today with an early morning fog which made for cool walking and then after checking in to the albergue, the full sun and blue sky making it possible to appreciate the finest stained glass windows in the world. It was a whole different emotion. 
• Leon, named for the headquarters of the 7th Legion of the Roman army (not the lion) has a long and important history part of which includes the Camino de Santiago. In spite of the fact that the town is a living breathing museum, it is a vibrant Spanish city with all of the pride it deserves. 
• I have now walked nearly 300 miles and assuming I can find my way out of town in the morning, I will pass the 60 percent mark before second breakfast. You see there are as many meals on the Camino as on a cruise ship. There is breakfast at 7,  there is second breakfast about 10, there is lunch between 1-4, there is merienda 5-6, and then there is dinner after 8. I do not know why there are no fat people in Spain. I know why there are less and less fat pilgrims. Walking 15 plus miles a day with a 30 lb pack burns over 5000 cal.  per day. Hard to eat enough to keep the wt on. 

Pilgrims are always looking to eat in a Spanish town when the kitchens are closed. One can get lunch from 1-4 but dinner from 7-9. If you finish your walk at say 2PM and shower, do your laundry and set it in the sun to dry, tend to your feet, and then look for something to eat at 4:01 you are out of luck in Spain.

Last night I was looking for food around 6PM and having no luck. I looked into a bar and there was only 4 elderly gents watching TV with a drink. I looked up to see that they were watching  the bull fights. I decided that food could wait and I joined them. One was an 82 year old former torero who sat by me explaining the nuances of every move. He would even stand and demonstrate the movement of the cape and the actions of the bull and what the torero was watching for. It was priceless

One awakens early due to the stirrings of pilgrims anxious to get going and inconsiderate of others. Once awake you face the decision to ignore them and rest more or get going. Today I was facing a tough choice of walks. Due to the fact that this is a sparecely inhabited region of Spain, there are few albergues. I knew that I would have to stop after 16 km or walk 33. I decided to go with the spirit of the Camino. The Camino and your body will decide. 

Starting in the dark from a small town is an interesting assault on the senses. It was only 45 degrees out but the smart thing to do is dress for the temps later. The air is cold on your flesh but the weight of your pack and the pace of your walk warms you quickly. The town is silent save the tic tack of your poles as you walk through the streets. The town smells like the usual mix of town smells as you search among the street lights and dark corners for the happy sight of a yellow arrow indicating the Camino. Miss one arrow and you are off to who knows where. Leaving Sahagun one must pass some of the Camino’s most important relics and pure examples of Mudejar – the mixture of Christian/European architecture and the brick work and the artisans of Islam. Crossing the river Cea over the Roman bridge you are now plunged into darkness and the headlamp lights the way along the “senda”   It is deathly quiet save the crunch of your boots and the tap of your poles on the gravel path. Your focus is on the small lighted area in front of you and you once again drop into the rythem of the Way and your thoughts. 

The scenery does not vary much. I became aware of my shadow. It appeared two hours after I started and was always in front of me. Walking West the first sun to hit you casts a long shadow. As the day gets longer, the shadow gets shorter and so does the journey for the day. 

Seven hours of such rythm

 later. I arrived at an albergue in Reliegos 33 km away. It’s all good. 

Beautiful walking today with cool temps and full sun. Trail was more of the rolling plain that served as the breadbasket since Roman times. I planned to only do about 19km today in order to see Sahagun-much history here and it is a good time to take a couple of short days. I was able to do the distance in just over four hours with two coffee breaks. Did the entire walk alone with my thoughts which was a welcome event after five hours of listening to a Canadian socialist artist expound on world events yesterday.  As this is Sunday little is open but I can get lunch and visit the sites this afternoon.

I had dinner last night with a retired Norwegian doing his 5th Camino and a 70 something Canadian originally from Denmark doing the Camino solo on a bike. All kinds, sizes, ages, and shapes here each on the Camino for their own reason.  Wishing you all well. Thanks for your interest. 

Church

Bar

Albergue 

1. Another 23.5 km behind me and I have reached the half way point at day 15. I am aware that this is not a race although racing skills have been helpful in motivating my way up a hill. I walk for 5 or 6 hours and finish by 12 or 1. My pace is my own and a bit faster than most so I cover about 5 km per hour. That works out to be a five hour day for a 25 km section of the Camino. I like to walk early and the latest I have started is 7. As I am walking for over a month and all of it west the sunrise is later each day. Today was a full sun day over the remains of the longest stretch of Roman road in Spain. I stopped in Ledigos as I plan to spend extra time in Sahagun tomorrow and it is only 16 km away.  This is problematic as the next day must be either very short or very long. As I am 2 days ahead of the guide book. Two short days should be welcome as I begin the third week of this adventure. 
2. People:  there is something unique about the relationships one developed on the Camino. As I left town this morning a woman from Barcelona whom I have seen at four or five stops along the way insisted on taking my picture like on college graduation day. Then another Canadian who lost her walking partner (Marsha from Colorado fell and dislocated her shoulder) insisted on walking with me. I have 5 hours of working on my listening skills and my patience. I was never so glad to get to my stop early and let her continue on. Most are friendly, all are helpful, and all share a certain adventurous spirit that is capable of forgetting the usual comforts and luxuries. One woman told me that the Camino is not for everyone. You must be willing to walk 15 miles per day, rain or shine, sleep in a top bunk among 50 others, and dry your knickers on the outside of your pack as you walk. Picture that. 

After a restful night in the albergue En el Camino last night I rose early for a great breakfast in what looked and felt like a hippie commune of he 60s. With fog and a flat course ahead of me covering the 26 km to The town above was over in a quick 5 hours. I will spend the night in a private room (splurge) at the convent of Santa Clara. This was not a pretty day as the fog was thick until about noon. I will try to attach a picture of the scene I was treated to all day. Once here it is the usual attending to cleanliness and then on to find food. Alcachofas con jamon and I am ready for rest and another day on the Camino. There are 257.4 miles to go as I complete my two weeks of walking.  Camino friends on my way appear and reappear.  As I walk at a fast pace, faster pace than most, I walked with a nice Spanish couple working their way thru the Camino a week at a time each year.  I walked with a couple young women from Colombia and Canada, and two German girls. People from all over the world doing their own Camino in their own way. Until tomorrow si Dios quiere

I miscounted the days in my last posting. Today is Thursday and I started walking from France on Saturday meaning tomorrow will be the end of week two. As of today I have walked 221 miles with 273 to go. Expecting good weather and terrain on Friday so I hope to move along. 

A good friend mentioned old skills being put to work on the Camino. I can not help but think of those old lessons of long walks in the cold.  I saw two pilgrims stop to bundle up against the cold wind today at the base of the meseta. Big mistake. One. Weds to be cold before the climb as the hard work will warm you. If you are wearing too much you will sweat thru everything and have and you will have  nothingf to put on at the top. Expecting temps of 45-57 tomorrow