Looking back at the valley after the climb

Departing before 7 at 45 degrees the walk across the meseta warms you with a long steep climb to the top with magnificent views of the. valley. A short walk across the top and there is a long 10 percent slope down the other side. Tough walking on old knees. There was quite a procession of pilgrims leaving Hontanas today. Some on to Fromista but I am happy to stop short in Boadilla del Camino.  I am now in the province of Palencia.  Walking the meseta is different as you can look ahead and see pilgrims for miles ahead and behind. I pass some on the flat and going up hills and the they pass me going back down. Have now completed two weeks on the Camino with week 3 starting in the morning. I just might be able to do this thing. Wish I had known about these temperatures. 

I must beg the forgiveness of the readers as my complaining of my conditions of yesterday pales in comparison to the exellent work done by Beth in giving birth to a lovely grand niece. Well done young Ritchies. All the best to you and yours. I saw a stork nesting two days ago and just knew that it must be time for Leighton.

Of course  I did not intend for this to be an heroic phase  I had rested well in Burgos and the weather was supposed to clear. After all, it’s all about getting there and you don’t get where you are going unless you go. Turned out that the rain got stronger and the wind turned to a gale. As you walk along you hope that the clearing will come  it never did. I am talking about walking across wheat and barley fields with horizontal rain stinging your face and ponchos flapping in the wind like a jib broken loose. Just as hope appeared in the person of a Camino sign that said Hontanas 5 km, the road changes consistency from rocks and puddles to slippery mud. The kind that adds weight to you boots and makes your feet move in directions unanticipated. All that said, I am fine and having a lovely lunch in Hontanas a full 31km from Burgos  292 miles to go and happy to be here.

Gentle readers. Not every day on the Camino is fun but they are all meaningful. After a great meal last night in the Albergue/hotel I enjoyed the company of some people I met very early on the Camino who had caught up with me. One man thought his wife was not walking fast enough so he left her behind. (Not a course of action I would have advised). The race for a bed to beat the surge of pilgrims required a push ahead in the cold wind and rain on to Burgos where there are many options and much to see. This places me a full day ahead of the guide book with 311 miles to go and 173 behind me. Under the weather conditions it was not prudent to spend time at Atapuerca as I had planned where they have found new and older human remains.  With no beds in Atapuerca it would have placed me into Burgos too late to find a place here.  Burgos is one of those cities that seems to be a living museum with historic and architectural treasures everywhere. Tomorrow will my first venture onto the meseta unless the weather is worse then I just might burn that extra day here in Burgos. I am greatful I am not doing this next year which is a Holy year when they expect as many as 1000 people a day.  Your cold, wet, and humble pilgrim. 

There are many towns called Villafranca along the Camino Frances as you might imagine. I was able to make the 17km and get here by mid day ahead of the crowds. There has been a race for a bed over the past few days. I am pleased with the comfortable pace I have taken but I have run into a large group of pilgrims that started a day or two ahead of me and are now filling every hotel and albergue. I have tried to make a reservation for tomorrow but all are full in the next 3 towns. My plan is to leave early again and hope to get into the municipal albergue. I choose not to worry about it as to do so would destroy the mood and the spirit of the Camino. 160 miles plus after 10 days of walking. Wifi is sketchy here and I lost the last attempt. Hope you get this

1. i have now made it trough Navarra and La Rioja and entered into the province above. Started this morning in Ciruena and will spend the night in Vilamayor del Rio. Tough day of  25 km walking the last 3 hours into a stiff wind with my first rain. Glad to get here. This makes my trip 5 km short of the guide book’s day 10 at the end of day 9. I plan to take a short day tomorrow in order to rest up for the hills upcoming and I want to see Atapuerca as they have a new dig there of some of Europes earliest remains. I have appreciated the comments of encouragemt when I can see them as this is not a wifi prolific part of Spain. 
2. I walked past a group of young Israelis today and they dubbed me with the name El Rey del Camino. I asked why and they said that the cup of water I have attached to my rucksack looks like a chalice. It is a nice thought but I am happy to be Caminopapi. 

the people on the trail are amazing. I have met the German sisters I mentioned earlier. In the 50s one lives in Canada and they are doing the Camino together. In fact sisters is perhaps the largest group beyond individuals. Two from Chicago in their 50s. Two from Minn. in their 20s because their dad did the trail 14 years ago. There are father daughter pairs, a mother daughter pair, many couples, one from Austrailia, one from UK, one from Tenn. many from Germany, etc. all in all an ensalada mixta of people for their own reasons at their own paces having the time of a life. Today I walked up a hill with two Ireshmen one a doctor and another a banker. Long time friends. They do a part of the Camino each year a few days at a time. I was hanging laundry today with a Polish woman doing her 5th Camino trying to cover 30 km per day.  Every imaginable reason to be here and ways to get it done 

Some of you know this but I feel the need to explain. Along the 500 mile route are scores of hostal type place to stay. They are often humble usually have a meal, shower, and bed. Often there is a place to do laundry even if by hand and today we are treated to some form for wifi (weefee here in Spain). We all have our priorities but once you get into an Alberge I like to shower, was cloths, get them out to dry, report in, find food and relax while resting for tomorrow’s journey. I have been in a strange collection of places. From the large municipal place in St Jean, the huge monestary in Roncesvalles, a new private place in Larrosana, over a restaurant in the town that starts with a Z, last night was a private place with great facilities where they woke us this morning with Gregorian chants and the owner hugged us all as we left this morning. This place is the first I came to after walking 27 km. passing the Rioja Alta golf club. It is a private home with an exentric owner who is a hoot. There are only 14 places and I look forward to seeing this through. My day is usually a start around 6 as I am awake and want to get started  I walk about 6 hours with clear breaks for food and water every 2 hours. It is a routine that allows me to relax in the afternoon and evening and see the local sights but still get where I need to get. Most of today was trails through vinyards. Your pilgrim.