Started our day early with an albergue provided breakfast we were on our way before 8. The albergue Reposado do Peregrinos was wonderful. For only 15€ we had a room for the 3 of us with our own bath, transport to the restaurant, breakfast and she washed our cloths. Good WiFi also made it a fabulous place to stay. Our goal was to walk farther than the guidebook recommendations and try to make it to Tui. What I did not know that the steep downhills over rolling rocks and old Roman roads were slow going on this old boys knee. Several breaks and some beer and we arrived close to 3PM. Unfortunately that is 4PM in Spain as there is a one hour later time zone change.

Tui is just across the River Minho which is the natural border between Portugal and Spain. The arrows that show you the way along the route make you walk an around about route that takes you through the most touristy areas possible. I know that I am not the most patient tourist but at the end of a hot day when you are tired and hungry I do not care to be forced to walk more to see another old building.

Crossing into Spain for me is an amazing delight. The surprising thing about language here is that the Portuguese want to speak Portuguese and English. I tried speaking Spanish to someone and he asked me to please speak English. The bridge here is only 400 meters long. It is like walking from Virginia to Washington DC across the 14th Street Bridge and everything changes. Walking on original Roman Roads in picture 1. Walking down the hill backward in picture 2, and the River Minho with Tui in the background

For Day six will our last walk in Portugal. We will cross the river into Spain and stay in the town of Tui. It should be about 20-22 km or less than 13 miles mostly down hill with good footing. As Spain is in a different time zone from Portugal, even though we are walking north, the act of crossing the river into Spain will cause us to add one hour and be 6 hours later than the East Coast. The first picture is me at a break with Rose from Ireland and Jane from Wales. Two of the people that we have run into along the way several times. The second is just a walk through the forest.

First please all know that I am fine and resting after a difficult climb through farm land and eucalyptus forest. My Fitbit recorded 30,000 steps and 144 flights of stairs. More on the trail later but first please let me whine about last nights accommodations.

There is an old line in a very funny movie that says “Have you ever spent time in a Turkish prison?” Last night it was not funny. I have stayed in albergue a before, shared showers, bunk beds, etc. but last night was classic. 40 people in the room together, without AC, hot as can be, and a festival going on past 4:00 AM with loud music. This was enhanced by a toilet that overflowed in the men’s room. Needless to say, we did not start the day rested.

Today’s trail was all you could hope for, almost nothing in the city. The footing along mountain washouts was challenging. As an experienced hiker now, there is a leasing that one has learned from golf. As you recognize that you may have taken the wrong path up the steep slope or down the precarious footing you will from time to time recognize that you did not pick the ideal route to negotiate the rocks. Like golf, it is always better to take your medicine and go back to the “fairway ” instead of assuming you can make it. There was lots of slipping and tripping today but the only tears were shed when we got to the top and placed a stone on the cross for Jean.

One third of the days gone and 95 of the 250 km done. Plans for tomorrow include a painful climb to the highest point on the route. 405 meters above sea level dine in only 12 km. Made reservations at an albergue in Sao Roque just short of Rubiaies. This should be the last of the hard days but I am sure I will find something to complain about.

I am expecting a call at 8:00 our time from the Del Webb gang. Looking forward to it.

Completed day 4 with 20 miles through farm country to Ponte do Lima. Named for the bridge over the river Lima it is a charming old town that is decorating for a festival. I spent some of today walking with what I called the German Volleyball team. Charming students from Bavaria that were great friends in high school but now on their way to study Medicine, Chemistry, and Psychology. I had a hard time keeping up with them.

Half way thru Day 4 in our way to Ponte do Lima. Grueling in and down walk through farm roads and washouts. Some pretty scenery so I decided to post early in case I cannot later. Slept terribly and the travel CPAP if failing. A couple pictures of parts of today’s walk.

After a great nights sleep the 30 km (18 miles for others) was much more bearable. I awoke at 5 AM to a thunderstorm out my window and started to frantically dig out my rain gear and repack all. I was pleased to learn that the storm was passing past quickly and the sun came up to a clear blue sky.

Today’s disappointment ( and there is always at least one) is that the last 3 km of the day were all uphill. We climbed over 600 feet on a country road of twists and turns seemed never ending.

One of the most fun about the people of the Camino is how groups and deep friendships form wax and wane. Today our group of Dan, my classmate, Michael, a German Army Officer, and I were blessed with the company of a charming Irish woman who is between jobs and taking the time to walk her second Camino. We also passed a nice group of Germans several times today and Miriam from Constant, Germany and Jenny from Hamburg. They will spend the night in our room at the albergue. They on the top bunk and Dan and I on the bottom. Tomorrow we will do another 25 km to Ponte de Lima.

The sore muscles and bad knees moderated overnight and I was able to rise and move on. We spent the night in a campground. Not my first choice but the food was great and after over 18 miles I was ready to stop anywhere. Checking in they put us in a “bungalow” which was supposed to have 2 beds in the bedroom and a fold out sofa. It must have been lost in translation but it was a double bed and I ended up sleeping with another man for the first time in well ever.

This morning I had pushed for an early start as the 9:00 start is not in my nature. So we departed at 8:00. An improvement but still not in my definition of early. We walked along the coast along mostly boardwalks. I am not a fan as the warped and sometimes missing boards make it a challenge of paying attention. Also the gaps between boards have a nasty habit of grabbing the tips of your walking sticks and causing an immediate stop.

Once we got to Vila do Conde we turned northeast to cross over to the Central Route which is believed to be the route taken by St James. We passed one of the worlds largest remaining Roman aqueducts. At 4:00 in the hot sun with over 5 km to go to our goal of Sao Pablo de Rates I came across a rural hotel/spa in the town of Arcos. Since my Fitbit recorded over 40,000 steps yesterday and 35,000 today I decided that I had had enough and broke from ranks. I will meet up with my colleagues tomorrow. There is a great Spanish phrase that says “Hasta aqui llego!” This is as far as I go. No sharing a bed tonight. No walking 200 yards thru the campground during to night to the restroom.

Please forgive me for my indulgence.

Did not plan on this but the last night at YES was a bit wild. First thing is we were blessed with the presence of Mike and Carola for dinner at the hostel. I wanted to show the the joy of the people of the Camino. I think they felt the love of the people that walk to find themselves and the comradreie of people who have chosen to take weeks of their lives and walk. Some for reasons that can not be expressed. Others who are lost soles that just need to move for some reason or another. I think in the short time did one short dinner the Michael Morand felt the deapth of the essanse that is the Camino.

After saying goodnight to the I found a wind party goin in in the hostel with the best dance music ever and DJ leading the way. I can not express how this describes thee Camino experience. We are all soles with issues of our own. I love to dance and I have trouble weeping occasionally due to my loss. So I danced to James Brown and La Bamba and many other things because it was fun and so what if it is nearly 2 AAM and I have to walk tomorrow. Carpe Diem baby. Tomorrow is tomorrow. Dance tonight.

Love to you all. Live for today. Love intensely and often. Life is short. Leave no emotions in expressed. I walk tomorrow and if it is the last please know that I loved well and lived life to the fullest.