Awakened early by the German sisters, I decided to get on with my day even though it was before 5. I packed up in Viana and started off to Navarette. The guidebook has me arriving in Logrono this afternoon. I stopped for a coffee on my way out of Logrono before 8. Moving along I arrived in Navarette at 10:30. Too early. So I continued on to Ventosa. This means I have walked 112.5 miles of the 500. Tomorrow will my day 7 and I will pass the 25 per cent mark. Si Dios quiere. Today’s was city and vineyard walking. Nice rolling countryside. Weather has been a blessing as have your comments. Your humble pilgrim
Buen Camino
This is the expression one hears all along the way from Pilgrims and the many people of these tiny towns along the Camino. Today was a delicious start with a breakfast in Los Arcos and passing many small villages like Torres Del Rio. Goal was to end up in Viana short of Logrono. I am not that interested in walking through big industrial cities. The walk up to Viana made me think I made a mistake. I learned that it is known as la Colina de Mataburros. I have run into a flood of pilgrims and this may be a daily rush to get a bed. Plan to pass Logrono in the morning and on to Navarette. This is La Rioja. There might be wine.
This is what I had hoped for
Leaving Villa Mayor de Monjardin the Camino winds through a valley of grapes, blackberry bushes, quince, and hay. Marvelous.
The things I should have known
There are so many. I departed Lorca at 6:00 in the dark for a simple 20km day. I arrived in Villamayor de Monjardin OK but Simple was not a word on my lips. One who delivered a morning paper for 5 years and spent 24 years in the Infantry should have realized that a trail in use for 1000 years may have suffered by use and weather. The way to train for the Camino is to find a dry stream bed at a 30 degree slope and walk up and down for miles. Also, my expectation of an easy 15 miles a day at 3 mph was crazy. Maybe 3 km if no hills.
This morning was an adventure where my early life experience saved me. I missed a sign in the dark and after 15-20 min of walking, I noticed that the road noise was no longer to my right but behind me and faint. I walked back and got on the trail but lost 30-40 min of Camino. All is well I will not try to attach pix bc the wifi is not reliable and I keep having to rewrite the blog. I will show pix when I return. Thanks for your interest and support
And then there was Lorca
Funny how this goes. Great day yesterday with rest and laundry. Got an early start up the Alto de Perdon and down the rocky back side before the sun came up. Pace was comfy and it placed me in Puente la Reina around 10. I got lost in Uterga by missing a sign but was helped by locals to get back on track. Great fortune in meeting up with Oscar and Silvia in Obanos (young people from Barcelona). Just as we sat down for a breakfast in Puente la Reina my phone rang. It was Titi. Great chat and plans for post Camino. Decided to walk on to Lorca but it was harder than I thought due to hills and heat. Here with private room for rest, repast, and repair of feet. Thanks to all for comments. I carry you all along with me
Experience is a great teacher-and she’s a bitch
So in spite of being sore and tired, I chose to rise early again as walking through a city (Pamplona) did not seem like fun. So I walked fast and was through the city on on to my goal early. So I decided to walk just one more town to make tomorrow’s climb of Alto de Perdon easier. It was some climb. The good news is that I am 5 km ahead of plan and I am half way up tomorrow’s hill. A lesson relearned is to stop and look back from time to time. I was unable To attach the view of Pamplona half way up the Alto de Perdon. It is beautiful. From Zariqueiegui, your humble pilgrim
Who knew that downhill was worse than up?
Day 2 was another 5:30 start aided by a great headlamp recommended by Agapito. Some of the most magnificent trails I have ever seen through pine forests and delicious small town streets. The challenge comes from the steep down slope and old knees. Thanks to walking poles and an understanding trail buddy I made it to my goal of Larrasoana. Fitbit reads 47046 steps and 116 flights of stairs. The steps are many due to the baby steps taken. An excellent Albergue with shower and dinner and it is off through Pamplona to Cizur Menor tomorrow. Pic is a trail marker that one finds along the way with pilgrim stones set on top.
At Roncesvalles
Started the hardest day at 0530 to take my time. Finally after 8 hours of walking without break, 42,348 steps, 24.10 miles, and 311 flights of stairs (over a 5000 ft climb). I arrived at my goal for a shower, a meal, and a bed. This was way harder than I imagined. Can’t wait to do it again tomorrow, and tomorrow, and tomorrow, and……
At St Jean Pied de Port
After days of trips and much expense I will finally start walking in the morning. If September is a light month on the Camino, a heavy traffic month must look like the Macy’s parade. Yesterday 350 people started the walk. This summer the average was 450 per day. To think that I ran into hundreds of people that never heard of the Camino. So far my prediction of a million friends along the trail that I have not yet met just might come true. This is a cute mountain town that looks like it could be in Bavaria. It is filled with people of every continent and every age. I am not the oldest nor heaviest so I remain confident. Big day tomorrow. 27 km up hill over 5000 ft and in the rain. Sure know how to have fun in retirement
Arrived in Pamplona
A long plane ride in a middle seat, a bus ride to the Attocha train station in Madrid, a three hour wait for the train, a four hour train ride to Pamplona, and I am finally at my hotel to rest tomorrow will be another bus ride adventure into France to the starting point. It will be Sat AM before I start the first mile of the 500. All this only heightens the anticipation.
Now to have a meal, a shower, and a nights rest. I will be 6 hours ahead of the east. Last. It is overcast and 22 C here today. Considerably cooler that Charleston.