We got an earlier start today since we had a full 25 kilometers to walk. We have learned that in this terrain, about 3 km/ hour is what we can expect so we were looking at 7-8 hours of walking. Blessed with good weather and 52 degrees, we set out on what was advertised as gentle slopes in the dark through city streets.
What locals and “friendly advisors” don’t seem to understand is that gentle slopes is a very relative description. What we have been experiencing has not been gentle for a 75 and 81 year old. Especially the downhills. Joe and I are very compatible walking partners. He climbs up much better than I (since I am carrying much more than he), I am able to walk down better than he (with the younger knees) and we have about the same pace on flat ground.
Exiting a city along the Camino in the early morning is actually a favorite of mine. There is very little traffic which makes the searching for way markers much easier. We experienced pilgrims know to look high and low and near and far for the shell or yellow arrows. They are found on corners of buildings, embedded into the sidewalks and just about everywhere. It is also a joy to see other pilgrims ahead. You can follow them from street corner to corner but keep looking for the way markers yourself. Joe and I were accompanied by a man from Italy who had the GPS program on his phone but told us that he walked 20km in the wrong direction last week.
We walked through the Pilgrims Plaza passing the 18th century Chapel built by the Architect Arturo Souto with the floor plan in the shape of the shell. The symbol of the Camino.

We have been extremely fortunate with the weather, our accommodations, and the number of pilgrims in November. Yesterday I counted a total of 35 pilgrims from many countries. Mostly Spaniards, Germans, and Americans. This is a very low number and it was easy to count since just about all of them passed us along the way.
Leaving the city early is also enjoyable because of the sounds. It is mostly quiet because of the lack of traffic and city hustle bustle but the crunching of the stones beneath your shoes and the rhythm of your walking sticks are occasionally interrupted by a barking dog, crowing rooster, or the distant sound of a siren.
Once out of town we came across an original road sign for the Roman road 19 first built in the year 300 and we were directed into the wooded area along that road toward Caldas de Reis.




As we knew that today was going to be long, we were pleased to find an excellent restaurant about half way for our traditional “second breakfast “.


We finally made it to our destination of the proud Galician town of Caldas de Reis with its River Umia, Roman ruins, and hot springs. Seven and a half hours of walking and 36,000 steps. Tired and a bit sore but in time to shower, relax, and blog. Tomorrow on to Padron.
So proud of you taking on these tough days by still seeing the beauty in it all
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I’m enjoying your trek immensely thanks to your wonderful narrative and pictures. Lots of questions for when you get back! For now, though, looking forward to tomorrow.
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